Jonathan Gold, Food Critic Who Celebrated L.A.’s Cornucopia, Dies at 57

He made a subspecialty of 1 avenue specifically. Ms. Reichl, who employed him at The Times and Gourmet, recollects his telling her within the 1980s that he had eaten each taco on Pico Boulevard. It was not simply tacos. Eventually he wrote about his fascination with the road in a 1998 article that began, “For a while in my early 20s, I had only one clearly articulated ambition: to eat at least once at every restaurant on Pico Boulevard, starting with the fried yucca dish served at a pupuseria near the downtown end and working methodically westward toward the chili fries at Tom’s No. 5 near the beach. It seemed a reasonable enough alternative to graduate school.”

In 2016, Ecco Press purchased his proposal for a memoir which Mr. Gold referred to as “a culinary coming of age book, I guess.” It was to be referred to as “Breakfast on Pico.”

Jonathan Gold was born on July 28, 1960, in South Los Angeles, the place he was raised. His mom, Judith, was a college librarian who had been a magician’s assistant. Irwin Gold, his father, was a probation officer assigned to oversee Roman Polanski and Charles Manson, amongst different offenders. Jonathan later recalled consuming Rice-A-Roni each Tuesday evening and spending a lot of his childhood in his room, taking part in the cello. When he was sufficiently old to fall underneath the affect of recent wave, he plugged in his instrument and sawed away at it within the short-lived native band Overman.

With cello proficiency in his favor, he attended the University of California, Los Angeles. Although he acquired his diploma in music historical past, in 1982, he had a sideline in artwork; he took a category with and labored as an assistant for the guerrilla efficiency artist Chris Burden. For a quick time, Mr. Gold considered himself as a efficiency artist, too. “A naked performance artist, to be specific,” he advised an interviewer. His supplies for one piece had been two bottles of Glade air freshener, a pile of grocery store broiler chickens, a reside rooster at the top of a rope and a machete wielded by Mr. Gold, who wore solely a blindfold. The rooster survived, and should have come out of the ordeal in higher spirits than Mr. Gold, who later stated, “The few minutes after an art performance are some of the most depressing in the world.”

While he was in faculty, Mr. Gold walked into the workplace of LA Weekly, an alternate paper, the place he was quickly studying proofs and pitching large, doomed concepts in regards to the zeitgeist. For a time within the 1980s, he was the newspaper’s music editor, and by the 1990s he was higher often known as a music journalist than a meals author, contributing lengthy articles to Spin, Details and different magazines. While reporting a Rolling Stone article in regards to the emergence of gangsta rap, Dr. Dre and Snoop Dogg gave him a nickname: Nervous Cuz.

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